Je suis une femme: Structuralism

Sharp tailoring is the new silhouette. And fashion writers are struggling to explain the sudden appeal of the once abhorred ‘shoulder-padded jacket’.

No, I fear I am incorrect. The appropriate name for the phenomenon this millennia is ‘strong-shouldered’.

Joan Collins

Whatever the name may be, the very thought of it brings to mind Joan Collins circa 1985.

Designers must be having a theatrical 1980s ‘moment’. Bless.

The 1980s will forever be remembered for over-indulge Nance in generally sound economic times. This was the era when fashion epitomised female identity in the workplace and, by

Yves Saint Laurent Suits 1980s

consequence, the size of the shoulders in jackets considerably grew. Thus as pointy heels today scream ‘power bitch’, the tailored suit became a symbol of feminism or ‘power
dressing’ in the corporate boardroom.

This style was not only influenced by designers, most notably Yves Saint Laurent, but through the popularity of television dramas such as ‘Dallas’.

Kate Betts, from Time magazine, says the emergence of these sharply tailored jacket

s on the runways this season is the result of giving women confidence at a time of economic uncertainty. Like the Little Black Dress, tailored jackets and blazers are wardrobe staples and serve a variety of needs for a variety of occasions.

Christian Dior's 'New Look'

For most of us it remains true that the terror of 1980s fashion is unknown to us. Yes, we have heard our mothers speak of those heathen (pre-Alexander Wang) times, but we haven’t experienced them.

Elsa Schiaparelli suit Fall/ Winter 1938-39

Luckily for us, recent runway collections and, indeed, what is available at the shops is far more refined then anything seen in Dynasty. Fashion hasalmost transported itself a few decades to the period of fashion between and including the World Wars. It is here we see are more simplistic elegance in tailoring with carefully created, beautifully structured silhouettes.

Shoulder pads originally became popular for women through the designs of Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s, who attempted to extend the shoulder line using wool or sawdust in order to create a more  flattering female form. However, it was when Christian Dior presented his now-dubbed ‘New Look’ collection in 1947 that our modern concept of structuralism emerged. He presented his signature fashion look of a fitted jacket with a nipped in waist and full calf length skirt.

So are we now supposed to be in love? Quite simply, yes. Why? Because the 80s are back. Because, according to stylists for Westfield.com, a ‘fierce’ jacket with a strong shoulder and a nipped waist gives you curves and downsizes your middle. Because no one cares for the pretty and sweet when the

return of the androgynous suit is so big.”Couture is architecture in movement,” Pierre Balmain once said. And so is a strong-shouldered jacket.

Far left, Hussein Chalayan Fall RTW 2009, and Gucci Fall RTW 2009.

Far left and left, Giorgio Armani Fall RTW 2009, right, Givenchy Fall RTW 2009 and far right, Donna Karan Fall RTW 2009

Far left, left and right, Marc Jacobs Fall RTW 2009 and far right, Alexander McQueen Fall RTW 2009

Left, Alexander McQueen Fall RTW 2009, centre and right, Louis Vuitton Fall RTW 2009

And finally, Christopher Decarnin brings you this….

Disclaimer: All shots courtesy of style.com and video via Youtube courtesy of Le Figaro.

If anyone requests, I have a range of chain stores alternatives.

*Je suis une femme: I am woman